Olio, Chippendale, Sydney – A Marvellous Mouthful
delicious. Magazine by Anthony Huckstep, National Restaurant Reviewer, 28 February 2017
A Sicilian chef touches down in Sydney, bringing with him a penchant for seafood, saffron and couscous, and his family’s own olive oil, writes Anthony Huckstep.
Sea urchin roe is my weakness. Polarising for some, this spiny little critter hides the most glorious, creamy, nutty swoosh of the ocean inside its shell. I love it served simply on bread.
When it’s championed on a menu, I find it impossible to resist. At Olio, the sleek new Sicilian eatery to join the clutch of restaurants on Chippendale’s Kensington Street, sea urchin roe sauce lathers tender strands of egg tagliolini. It’s simple, luxurious and one of the best pasta dishes I’ve encountered lately.